I wanted to get this “wine of the week” out to you before I take a road trip to Saratoga, NY this week. With the recent loss of my precious Marty kitty this past week, I need a change of scenery.
For this week’s wine of the week, I take a trip down to the hot climate of the Puglia region along the Adriatic Sea in southeast Italy where the Primitivo grape is widely produced. Puglia is a dry, sun-drenched region that has one of the most intense sun in all of Italy. The entire east side is along the coastline bordering the Adriatic Sea.The climate is moderated by the Adriatic and Ionian seas, which provide constant, cooling maritime winds.
This unique climate helps produce exquisitely balanced fruit and is well-suited for the production of concentrated, fruity and spicy red grape varieties, like Primitivo. Puglia’s Mediterranean climate and iron-rich, calcareous soils support the native Primitivo by producing an inky, spicy, and brambly ripe red wine.
About half way down, the region becomes the Salento Peninsula. This peninsula, bordered by water on three sides, receives moist, nighttime, sea breezes that bring a welcome cooling effect to the region, where little rain creates a challenging environment for its vines. The region is named for the Italian expression, “a pluvia,” meaning “lack of rain.”
Loved for its fruit-forward wines, the Primitivo grape originated in Croatia. Here it was named from the Latin word, primativus, meaning “first to ripen.” Nobody knew until the early 90’s that Primitivo and Zinfandel were actually the same genetic grape. The grape is better known outside of Italy as Zinfandel, especially California.
California Zinfandel tends toward a sweeter, fruitier style than Primitivo. This is due to areas like Lodi that are hot during the day, and don’t really cool off that much at night. Napa Valley, and the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma County, and in parts of New York state also produce it, but are usually lighter-bodied. Both can have a slight sweetness from ripe fruit, but Primitivo is usually made in an earthier, more tannic style.
The main traits of most Primitivo wines are fruity with notes of cherry, strawberry, blackberry, and raisin, earthy and rustic, big and jammy, high in alcohol, chewy tannins, and sometimes a sweet finish. It is no longer an obscure blending grape in Italy. It has become a symbol for high quality, inexpensive single varietal wines unlike many Italian red wines. Primitivo’s ripe fruit and full body make it a great partner with rich, meaty dishes.
Castello Monaci Piluna Primitivo 2021
I was first introduced to this lovely wine in 2023 when I was the General Manager at Portico Restaurant, high end Italian steakhouse, in del Lago Resort & Casino. Based on the recommendation from my sales rep and upon tasting, I was sold. I decided to add it permanently to my extensive wine list as well as “by the glass” program at a very moderate price.
Tasting Notes –
Aromas of ripe black fruit, dried red fruit, strawberry, and toasty vanilla and pepper spice. On the palate, hints of cherry, chocolate, and a berry basket. Medium bodied (most Primitivo is heavier), light-medium tannins (with bottle age, tannins have softened out today from my first tasting in 2023), low-medium acidity, and a fruity character at the end of the palate followed by an earthy finish. Even with some age and dried characteristics, it still has some freshness to it.
This featured wine from producer Castello Monaci, with its sustainability philosophy, stands out in the heart of the Salice Salentino DOC, which is located in Puglia in the “heel of the boot” of farthest southeast Italy. Each vineyard section is always cultivated and harvested at night to ensure the best quality of grapes. It has consistently received a 90-point rating from international reviewers overall several vintages. Drink now – not age worthy. Look for the 2023 vintage available now.
Cheers,
Michael