Tag: wine writing

For this week, we continue the educational series on wine grape varietals with a focus on the different names used for a particular grape produced all over the world.

There are roughly over 10,000 different wine grape varieties identified worldwide. Depending on the source though, this number could be less or more. While this enormous number exists, only a small percentage (about 1,300 to 2,000) are commonly used for commercial wine production. A mere 33 varieties account for 50% of the world’s vineyards.

A vast number of grape varieties have several names depending on where they’re grown (see last week’s post on Pinot Grigio and Pinot Gris here). Countries like Georgia, Italy, Portugal, Spain, and Greece grow and produce many indigenous or rare, local varieties unknown to most people, unless you visit that locale. Most aren’t massively produced or exported to other countries.

So, what’s in a name? Are they always interchangeable, or does their place and name indicate what their resulting style will be? For the average consumer and shopper, this can be an overwhelming, confusing and a daunting task. Not to mention the countries who don’t identify the grape(s) on the label or bottle (like Italy and France). The list can be very extensive, but I hope to clarify some of these differences with examples below.

Syrah vs. Shiraz

These wines can taste almost like polar opposites. Their body, expression and texture change with the climate. In the temperate northern Rhône Valley of France, Syrah is the signature grape behind storied appellations as Côte-Rotie and Hermitage. Further south, it forms the backbone of many Côtes du Rhône blends and is an essential part of many rustic Languedoc-Roussillon reds.

Known as Shiraz in Australia, its style is most distinct in the hot Barossa Valley and warm McLaren Vale regions, but it also thrives in cooler Canberra region. Where Northern Rhône Syrah has firm, drying tannins, Australian Shiraz has a velvety, mouthwatering feel.

French oak accentuates Syrah’s visceral notes of savory, cured meat, yet American oak lends vanilla and chocolate tones to Aussie Shiraz. Both can have display intense notes of violet. There are the spice flavors as well, such as white pepper in cooler regions and black pepper in the warmer ones.

Syrah/Shiraz can also offer something in between. In New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay, it’s luscious with forward fruit, but suggestive with pepper. In South Africa, it veers toward more of a spicy richness, while in California and Washington State, it can be smooth, big, or edgy and taut.

In this case, the name is a hint to the style. Shiraz is likely big and bold (thanks to warm climate) while Syrah tends to be snappy and thinner (not in a bad way, but less oomph).

Grenache vs. Garnacha vs. Cannonau (“kah-noh–now“)

Grenache stuns wine lovers across the globe with its luscious red fruit flavors. Grenache is an archetypal Mediterranean variety. It wants full sun, will withstand heat and drought and it thrives on stony soils. This resilience explains its success and expansion in warm climates.

With Grenache’s softness and plump fruit, it adds a juicy allure and warmth to Châteauneuf du Pape. It’s an integral part to Côtes du Rhône and is a part of the holy trinity of Australian Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre (GSM) blends in France. As Garnacha, it can form a part of Spanish Rioja. It has often been considered a blending grape and adds body to a blend, but can be lovely on its own.

As a single varietal, Grenache is full-bodied without being overly tannic. It can also make charming, aromatic reds in the Rhône cru villages of Gigondas and Vacqueyras. Cannonau on the island of Sardinia, it’s an even bigger, stronger and bolder version.

Grenache vines are very resilient and can last a while. The variety hits its stride in the old-vine Grenache wines from the French Roussillon in Languedoc, neighboring Spanish Priorat region, and McLaren Vale region in Australia. The wines are concentrated and fragrant with spicy red fruit.

But Grenache is versatile in itself. It also makes the sweet, fortified wines of Banyuls, France and the dry, fully pink rosados of Navarra region of Spain. No matter the style or origin, Garnacha always shines with its gorgeous red fruit.

Mourvèdre (“moor-VED-druh”) vs. Monastrell vs. Mataro

Ancient and dark, powerful and brooding, this thick-skinned, small-berried grape of Spanish origin thrives in hot climates. It requires more than just warmth being a late ripening grape. It needs proper, sustained heat. Mourvèdre resides best on the Mediterranean coast in Spain, where it’s called Monastrell, and forms the gutsy, heavy, tannic reds of Jumilla and Alicante regions.

As Mourvèdre, it’s the backbone of French Provençal Bandol, where it gives a kick to reds and a tang of tannins to dry rosés. In the Languedoc, it contributes nicely to various red blends. In Australia, where it’s known as Mataro, the grape asserts its dusky charms in GSM blends. The best examples have a heavy perfume of black fruit when young and leather and spice with age.

Blaufränkisch (“blahw-fraun-keesh”) vs. Lemberger

The temperate and distinctly continental latitudes of Central Europe are home to this underrated red grape. Medium to full-bodied in the north, Blaufränkisch produces unique, structured, and elegant wines. It is also grown and produced in New York State where the climate mirrors those of Germany and Austria and stylistically similar. I find them to be a nice change from your typical cool-climate reds.

In eastern Austria, it’s known as Blaufränkisch. In southern Germany and France, it’s Lemberger. It also goes by other names in Hungary, northern Croatia, western Slovakia, in eastern Slovenia. No matter the name, it produces quality reds that age well. It also forms part of Egri Bikaver, Hungary’s historic “bulls’ blood” wine.

Cooler vintages or sites add an irresistible pepperiness to the usually dark-fruit spectrum, where you’ll find dark cherry and blueberry. Despite the differences in climate and expression, Blaufränkisch exhibits great varietal resemblance.

When vinified in stainless steel, Blaufränkisch is sometimes confused with fuller-bodied Gamay. When vinified in small, new oak barrels, Blaufränkisch gets punchy and needs a few years to return to its inherent subtle nature. The most elegant results are achieved with gentle handling and careful amounts of oak. It’s not a well-known grape outside of where it’s traditionally grown but has been increasing in popularity.

Malbec vs. Côt (“cot”, like “hot”)

Malbec is synonymous with Argentina, where this aromatic, black grape revels in the bright, high-altitude sunshine of the Andes mountains. This French original has been almost supplanted by Argentinian success. Malbec is sometimes referred to as Côt in France. It’s even one of the five permitted varieties used in red Bordeaux wines but typically doesn’t ripen well in parts of Bordeaux.

Malbec’s real French hotspot is in Cahors, a town in southwestern France as well as a namesake appellation. Cahors wine is inky, opaque and dense with tannin. The firm, astringent tannins of French Malbec are often softened with the addition of Merlot. Malbec in Argentina, however, are plenty ripe to have the softness and silkiness.

In both cases, the wines’ structure helps them age and develop pretty well. The best show floral overtones of violet and peony. In France’s cooler Loire Valley, Côt produces wines that are less extracted, very fresh, floral, and often spicy.

Zinfandel vs. Primitivo

White Zinfandel is the wine that’s launched thousands of enthusiasts, but this pink elixir does not give this historic grape any justice. It’s known as Primitivo in Puglia, Italy and Zinfandel in California. As a red wine, Zinfandel always boasts full, juicy and plump fruit (sometimes can be jammy, think PB & J) that covers a spectrum of ripeness, often with elevated alcohol levels.

When made well, Zinfandel balances these qualities perfectly. Unfortunately, grapes in the same bunch can barely ripen, become overripe (bloating and too much sugar), or even become raisin-like.

In Puglia, Primitivo is light, smooth and warming. On an inland elevation, Gioia del Colle produces the freshest versions, while coastal Primitivo di Manduria is heavier, denser and more powerful.

In California, this rustic red attains true elegance. Some ancient Zinfandel old vines in Napa, Sonoma, and Lodi bring forth concentrated, full-bodied wines with warm alcohol, expressive quality, and enticing red fruit aromas. Quality well-aged and mature Zinfandel is well loved by the international community.

Chardonnay vs. Chablis

Although this doesn’t technically fit same grape, different name, it is an important distinction of grape name vs. region. When people first taste Chablis and learn that it is Chardonnay, they often look surprised.

How can a wine that tastes so clean, crisp, and a mineral sensation possibly be the same grape as the rich, buttery Chardonnays that dominate wine lists from California and parts of Burgundy? The answer comes down to style, climate, and terroir. Chablis is said to be by many (myself included) as the purest expression of Chardonnay.

Chablis is located in the northernmost part of Burgundy in France. Its cooler climate and famous limestone soils shape a wine that explodes with acidity, freshness, and a minerality often described as chalky or steely.

Unlike the rounder Chardonnays aged in oak barrels from Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune or the thick and heavy, cedar vanilla bombs from California’s Napa Valley, Chablis is typically fermented and aged in stainless steel, neutral oak, or partial oak. This approach preserves the acidity, crisp apple, lemon, and saline flavors that make the wine unique.

The absence of heavy oak influence is the major differentiator. While many Chardonnays lean on new oak to build body and add flavors of vanilla, toast, and butter, Chablis producers focus on purity and terroir. That doesn’t mean oak is absent altogether, some premier cru and grand cru Chablis see a bit of oak, but it’s usually subtle by just playing a supporting role. This gives Chablis a leaner structure in stark contrast to the creamy, heavy character of oak-driven Chardonnay.

The environment in and around Chablis also plays a huge role. Chablis vineyards sit in a continental climate where frost is a constant threat. The cooler temperatures slow down ripening, which keeps acidity high and sugar levels lower.

In warmer areas like California, Chardonnay ripens easily, leading to bolder fruit flavors, higher sugar content, and a style that more often than not lacks subtlety. Side by side, you’d hardly believe the wines are the same grape but tasting them together is one of the best ways to appreciate how versatile Chardonnay really is.

I did a Chard side by side recently for a Women for Wine Sense tasting class in Syracuse and the audience was mesmerized by the difference.

For wine drinkers who think they don’t like Chardonnay, Chablis often comes as a revelation. Its flavor profile avoids the buttery heaviness that critics of California Chardonnay complain about. Instead, Chablis is fruity, food friendly, and an elegant take on Chard.

If you are interested in learning more about grapes, grape families, and grape names, I can certainly expand on this discussion. For example, Pinotage from South Africa is a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault (varietal in France) or that Pinot Noir in Italy is called “Pinot Nero” (same grape) or Pinot Noir in Germany is called “Spätburgunder”.

I must admit, I find this stuff fascinating (history buff, too) so just say the word. Thank you to Wine Cellar Guide (above wine grapes) and Wine Enthusiast (grape names) for the beautiful images.

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Cheers & Sante,

Michael

michael@michaelpour.com

IG: @themichaelpour